EDGE LIFTS RPE PROTOCOLS

Applying Powerlifting Methods to Finger Training

The same principles that govern effective strength training in powerlifting can be directly applied to finger strength development for climbers.

The Protocol

x5@7  x5@8  x5@9  2x5V90%

This notation means:

• 5 reps at RPE 7 (3 reps in reserve)
• 5 reps at RPE 8 (2 reps in reserve)
• 5 reps at RPE 9 (1 rep in reserve)
• 2 sets of 5 at 90% of today’s top weight

Why RPE for Finger Training?

Traditional percentage-based training fails to account for:

• Daily readiness fluctuations
• Skin condition
• Accumulated fatigue from climbing sessions
• Individual grip position variations

RPE-based autoregulation solves these issues by adjusting load based on how the weight actually feels, not what the spreadsheet says.

Implementation Notes

• Start conservative with RPE estimation
• Log everything: grip position, edge depth, perceived effort
• Integrate with climbing schedule (avoid heavy finger training before limit bouldering)
• Change the grip from chisel to half crimp for variation
• Increase TUT by holding the last rep lockout

In short, this is strength training for climbers: edge lifts build finger strength and also serve as pulley injury prevention when volume and RPE are controlled.

Beginner to advanced strength protocols

Volume-focused protocols for hypertrophy